MG Sinanju Painting Tips


So needing to paint the gold trims on the Sinanju might’ve put some of you off from this kit. Some of you, like me, aren’t exactly meticulous with your hands to paint. Well, here are a few ways of tackling Sinanju’s gold trims courtesy of Dengeki Hobby (and one from me ^^).

1. Cut out the black and apply only the gold trim


This one should come as a no-brainer to anyone who doesn’t want to paint. While it looks easy, you actually need to be very careful so as to not cut into the gold itself. For the most part, it is pretty easy but think… how are you going to tackle the gold curves at the wrist and collar? and do you think you can get the black area between the emblem’s wings? This is just some of the more apparent issues you will run into if you take this route. A very sharp knife is needed for this but that sharpness also increases your chance of screwing up.

2. Applying the water slide decals


Like the gold foil stickers, it’s best that you also trim the decal right at the border of the actual gold trim. With this route, it’s also necessary that you shell out the extra money for Mr. Mark Softener or Mr. Mark Setter. They are toxic chemicals that softens and “melts” the decal onto the plastic so it sticks otherwise it can fall off or make the gold trim look like ass.

3. Paint with Gundam Marker


You can pick up a gold Gundam marker and paint the trim with it directly or dispense the paint into a dish and use a brush (why not just buy a bottle of Mr. Hobby Gold in this case?). Don’t be deceived by the pictures. The paintjob in the photo above is like…smoother than the foil sticker. As easy as it looks, there’s no way any mere mortals can do such a clean job with a Gundam marker(not to mention it’s not THAT easy to clean off excess as well). The photos made the process look like cake. Use a real touch black (or the panel line Gundam marker) to sharpen the edges.

4. Spray paint


Exactly as it looks. Spray paint all in gold then color in the black. This seems like the hardest route to take. Again, not as easy as the photos make it out to be…

5. Masking and spraypaint.


THIS is my favorite route (not). Meticulously cut tiny rectangles and just mask the whole thing (repeatedly!) before spraypainting! Very effective but very time consuming and tedious… so this is not very efficient. Props to you if you want to do this. The blue bottle in the picture is Mr. Masking Sol.

And now… here’s a tip from yours truly…



This idea came to my mind after I got really frustrated with the rounded edges and curves on the shield. This method is simple; just paint the foil stickers and apply. You’ll still get the painted look but the lines will be cleaner. It’s also much easier this way too since you’re not fretting about getting paint all over. HOWEVER! There are some drawbacks…

– You can only do this for half of the foil sheets. Mainly The foil stickers that doesn’t have any black in them. Still, this is a great time saver.

– This doesn’t save you from the cracks/gaps/seams that the foil stickers will leave from fitment

– Crease marks and bends are more noticeable due to the paint.

– You can risk having the paint seeping into the adhesive part.

– a pointer: do either spray a little top coat or primer onto the foil sticker. The paint doesn’t stick well onto the foil. I had to apply multiple layers.

Since I have an ego over foil stickers, I only used this method on the red part of the shield (pictured above). That’s as far as I’ll go. The black part of the shield is handbrushed. The two blends perfectly. I’ll continue to handbrush the rest of the model. This method is only a last resort for the painting route to escape tough situations.

Hope this helps some of you. I won’t be updating again until Saturday or Sunday. I have a four page essay I need to type up by Friday xD.


60 thoughts on “MG Sinanju Painting Tips

  1. I have a question Z,

    I know the gold stickers are horrible, and I’ve read many tutorials on how to tackle the gold emblems with either hand brush or spray, but why did nobody mention anything about the included water slide? I thought the consensus was that water slide decals turn up much better than dry transfer and stickers, so why do people not use water slide decal for the sinanju emblem? Is there some down side to it that I am not aware? Thanks in advance!

      1. Thanks Z!

        Also, I read in your post that you sort of regret using matte this time around, and thought semi-clear works better. Do you still think that is true, or perhaps even gloss?

        One last thing, I plan on spraying my Sinanju with cans, my options are:

        MR HOBBY Gundam Color Spray Red JG09 or JG10
        TAMIYA Red or Bright red (apparently italian and mica not recommended).
        Tamiya Metallic red, although I don’t know how that will look compared to Candy metallic (using glossy black, crome and clear red), and I can’t choose that because its too costly.

        Any thoughts? Thanks!

        1. Well, I said that because the matte coat dulled out the gold… and gold looks better shiny (naturally). I would try out semi-gloss but I don’t think gloss works unless the red I’m using is a gloss red… like red mica or metallic red.

          1. I will heed your advice and avoid matte on gold parts. But what about matte on the armor parts?

            Do you know if applying a hand-brushed coat of future eats into sprayed paint? I’m not familiar with the which 3 type of paint goes on top is bad deal.

            1. Yes, matte on the armor is good. A nice blend of gloss and matte on a model is actually very attractive if pulled off tastefully/correctly. I’ll leave that to your own judgment.

              And sorry but I don’t know how to help you on the second part… never used future floor polish before ^^;.

            2. Future will not mess up any base layer of paint once it is dry. Future is a water based acrylic so your safe with any DRY base layers.

              The rule of thumb is that oil based paints like enamel should not be put over a water based base layer. That is the only rule I know of.

  2. I used the masking solution method without the masking tape. You end up using about a quarter of the masking solution bottle so not exactly the cheapest option.

    Step one. Paint entire surface gold

    Step two. Mask entire surface with masking solution.

    Step three. Use a new blade and cut out areas to paint black. TIP, don’t wait too long to paint the black areas after trimming the masking solution. The solution tends to dry out and go into elastic tension and will naturally peal away from edges if you let it sit for too many hours.

    Step four. Paint black surface. TIP, don’t wait too long to peel remaining masking. If the paint is too dry it has a tendency to chip at the edges of your masking when peeling the masking off. Not a good thing.

    You can go back and touch up with hand painting if you need. I can’t figure out an easier way around this paint job. It’s a tough one to pull off but with lots of patience you will get fantastic results! Take breaks and do a few pieces at a time. I tend to get sloppy if I don’t take it easy.

  3. I’m not sure if this question was posted before, but would paint work on my titanium finished version? I’m worried it would mess up the gloss coat

  4. Hi,
    Thanks for sharing the tips!
    I managed to complete my sinanju (well, almost) few weeks ago, and from your final tip there, used another method for the red piece of the shield.
    Instead of painting the gold foil, I cut out the surrounding sticker of that particular foil piece, and stick it to the shield, after which I can paint the gold on the red part. The surrounding sticker serves as a good masking tape.
    Am quite satisfied with the outcome :)

  5. you can do enamel paint wash for better result.. first paint the whole piece gold (make sure you use lacquer based paint or spray paint), then wait for the paint to dry. after that, paint the whole piece with black (enamel black), wait for it to dry, then use q-tip and enamel thinner to wipe the black on the gold trims…

  6. What I would do is spray the entire part in gold, topcoat with gloss, and do a panel line wash for the black parts… What do you think?

    1. I think the surface area is too large for panel line wash.. you shouldn’t thin the enamel paint that much.

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