When I first saw the Unicorn Gundam on a Magazine scan, I was like “wow… how unique!”. Unicorn looked like something out of Macross Plus while keeping the mobile suit feeling but I wasn’t actually attracted to it though… until I saw Destroy Mode! I laughed… it transformed from an original design to something we all recognize: IT’S A GUNDAM! The red panels are certainly alluring enough to make me pre-order the MG the moment I knew about it. That being said… I actually have this MG since it first came out (last christmas) and left it on my shelf for about 10 months before finally getting to it now. Geez…
I love the design of the Unicorn and find it so special that I don’t think straight building it will do the Gundam any justice so I wanted to put in all of my effort into this model. This is my first time using paint on a Gundam model in a larger scale than just minor detailing. The only parts that weren’t painted were the white parts; I just sprayed top coat on them to flatten the shine.
Out of the Box
If I counted right, this model comes with 20 frame runners of parts and suprisingly, no PC parts. As expected of a Ver. Ka kit, you get this HUGE sheet of marking stickers and decal. Yay!
The Works- Preparations, Color Testing, Progress and Whatnot
The one thing I didn’t like about this model is that the transparent parts are of a dull pink color. Combined with the pure white parts, and it gives off a nauseating effect to me. I figured I should probably make it more vivid.
Before I began on the construction, I actually looked through the manual like twenty times to familiarize myself with the Gundam’s parts. This helps me prepare on what I need to do later on and I’ll at least have an idea on where I need and don’t need to paint.
Before I paint the actual piece, I tested all my paint on the runners itself to see how it turns out as a precaution. Played around until I find a satisfying result then move on to the actual parts. At the end, I’ve settled on painting over the pink parts in Tamiya Clear Red. It makes the Destroy panels more vivid and give it a Jolly Rancher red look to it ^_^. The white parts I just spray with Mr. Hobby’s Flat top coat.
The Body
After painting the pink body panels and waiting for it to dry, I started construction of the body first. Many little pieces build right on top of each other to form the bulk of the body. Even though there are plenty of sliding parts, the body doesn’t feel the least bit flimsy. It’s actually quite solid!
I sprayed Mr. Hobby’s Flat top coat after applying the decals and stickers.
The Arms and Hands
Same process as the body. Check out the difference between the painted and unpainted arms! :D
For the hands, I cut up the 3-finger piece into individual pieces to allow more articulation when posing. I think this is a no-brainer mod ^^;
Shoulders
For the shoulders, I assembled it without the red panels first so I can spray the top coat without risk having to fog up the red panels. It’s takes more time since I have to dissemble and reassemble it again but it was necessary.
The Waist
One of the most interesting things of this model is seeing how all the sliding parts go together that allows Unicorn to transform into Destroy Mode. Even the waist has plenty of sliding, flipping, opening panels that requires some time to assemble than the average MG waist. A locking mechanism on the rear allows you to pull the ball socket that connects the legs outward a little (completely pointless methinks).
Backpack
I thought the plain gray thrusters and beam saber holders were a bit boring so I painted them in Gunmetal on the outside ^^;. The inside is coated with multiple layers of Tamiya flat red then another layer of the clear red. I also ran over the blue part with Tamiya Flat Blue.
Legs and Feet
There’s nothing really “complicated” or difficult about assembling this part surprisingly as everything seem straightforward despite the abundance of pieces. You can actually immediately see how the inner mechanisms work as you build it that allow the legs to transform.
Head
First off… whoever decided to use the yellow foil sticker for the Unicorn’s V-fin and thinks it look even remotely OKAY deserves to have their model confiscated >_>. The foil sticker is just hideous and destroys any elegance this Ver. Ka model has.
Although I have Tamiya Yellow, I decided to not use it because I find a yellow v-fin on an almost entirely white Gundam is… out of place. I had a better idea…
The V-fin took a good amount of time and effort for me to get it right. The process was paint the lines, wipe with thinner, paint, wipe, paint, wipe until I got it how I want it. So tedious…
The only foil sticker I used on this ENTIRE model was for the eyes. I painted in everything else.
Weapons
Painted the Beam Magnum’s ammo pack into gunmetal and painted in the missles for the bazooka.
I didn’t care enough to assemble the other ammo packs ^^;
As for the beam sabers, they were originally pink but that didn’t flow well with the red I had going so I painted them too!
Unicorn has four beam sabers but the model only comes with two beams sooo okay… I took two more from my other MG models and painted them as well. They fit because these are just your generic MG UC beams.
Action Base
Unicorn has its own clip for the Action Base but didn’t come with the base itself so thought I bust out a new white one from my Action Base Reserve (aka my closet). Got this the same time I bought Unicorn :D
Unicorn Mode
My initial impression of the completed model was… “Wow… it can’t move!” but it’s probably the top coat that got on the joint that cause it to be so stiff. Loving how clean the color scheme look on this model. The details are still sharp despite the fact I didn’t even do the panel lines! Movement does feel restricted but not really something to complain about and for this model, its not one of its maint points anyway.
ORE WA GUNDAM MODE!
Transforming Unicorn looks deceptively complicated from the manual but it’s actually quite simple and easy after playing with it a couple of times. It’s very straightforward and the parts hold in place pretty well for the most part.
When in Gundam Destroy mode, Unicorn becomes a little more loose and feel a bit less stable than its former self. This is probably due to the added height. The body also tends to the come off easier from the waist because the peg isn’t as deep into the socket anymore. It might feel like it’ll break at first when trying to move it around but after getting the hang of it, the joints are quite abusable! Their range might be limited but they hold in place very well and doesn’t fall to the whims of gravity. This is great because that means it’s actually more versatile in mid-air poses!
I’m truly proud of this model’s end result. The dark red definitely looks a lot better (vivid) than the stock pink in my eyes. Sure, I made a few whoops here and there but the overall picture is just aesthetically pleasing to the eyes (to mine at least).
Now for the moment of truth!
UNICORN DRILL! FINAL ATTACK!!
cookies to anyone who knows the references ^_^
WITH YOUR DRILL, PIERCE THE HEAVENS!!!
DRILL BOOSTER KNUCKLE!!!
And these two are my favorite shots during the photoshoot:
Last Thoughts
I love this model. This is definitely a great model in and of itself. Even with the high number of part runners, this model can still be built quickly and it isn’t as sophisticated as something like the MG Zeta Gundam Ver. 2.0. Even with all the sliding parts and whatnot, this model is still straightforward to assemble.
People have complained about this kit’s lack of poseability but you see… the purpose (selling point) of this particular model is not its articulation but I think we all know where the true beauty of this model comes from. Katoki probably intended this kit to be yet another GFF in model form. I actually find the comment “lack of poseability” is an overstatement. This model might not be able to pull off extra dynamic moves like the MG Strike Noir or even Avalanche Exia but it can still pose decently as evident in my photos. People just need to push the joints a little harder than usual, that’s all.
To get the full aesthetic pleasure out of this kit, one needs to spend a little more time and effort on it. Slapping all the little red markings and decals IS tedious and requires an infinite amount of patience but the end result is well worth it.
OTHERS’ REVIEW:
ガンプラ命 
Hey Z, I want to ask something. Did you paint the red parts on the inside? And I’m actually not sure about what thinner does. Can you explain? Since I would love to make the V-Fin just like yours
Yes, I painted the inside too. Thinner dilutes the paint to make it more runny.
how did u make the frames still transparent?im still new about painting..
He used Tamiya clear red paint
Sorry for double posting, I just thought about this question. How did you topcoat all the parts without ruin the red frame part?
Leave it in Unicorn mode.
which pain did you use? acrylic?
Yes
Hi, what did you use for the red lines on the v-fin and the mouth of the unicorn head? I can’t seem to find a red gundam marker that is fine-point.
did your gunpla waists will easy to drop off by itself?
Is the pink psychoframe all hand painted or did you used spray paint?
Thanks
Hmmmm, I dont know if this model you have ie the version KA Unicorn is same in principle as the FA Unicorn Gundam I have got. On my Unicorn Gundam ie the Full Armour one, I have loads of problems with it. I think I shall put it in bullet points so that this post doesnt feel too cluttered.
1) weak joints – The knees, ankles, torso are the worse I have come across. Whilst I have been building it and completed it, the above are loose and flimsy like they do not have any friction in them to keep them in place at all. After transformation, it is even worse as the model now is taller and longer and is much more “empty” due to the parts being pushed out. The torso “lock” behind is blocked by the backpack and I always have to take off the backpack to access it and thats not all, after transforming, it never stays in it s locked position and keeps flipping open, making the kit have a very “weak” torso. They should have designed it with polycaps instead imo…
2) Transformation problems – the 2 bits whereby they are supposed to be pulled out to reveal the NTD at the arm is a joke and there is no indication to where you have to stop when you pull them and also no indication of which direction. The bits at the knee are also a joke as i can never get the 2 small pegs into the NTD part which protrudes from the knee. The shoulder pads are an interesting bit as well as the white piece tends to pop off when I am lifting it as per the instructions for transformation.
3) Other areas – Other things which I dislike in particular are the “crotch” in front which always seem to fall in, the lock on the rear of the waist which locks the legs apart also seem to have a mind on its on. There is a total of 4 irritating piece of plastic on the ankle which tends to fall off as they are only “hanging” in place. And errr whats the point of having an NTD piece at the ankle when it is always hidden by the white piece of plastic which rises up to the leg armour plate?? :P
Not trying to rant or anything but just wondered if you encountered any problems like me or am I the only unlucky one :(
I have got the Banshee as well and it has the exact same problems :(
hmm… I haven’t touched my unicorn in awhile but I am fairly certain my Unicorn doesn’t have most of the flaws you listed. Like the knees and ankles are firm enough for me (I don’t find them loose). I do agree with you about the torso lock not staying in place though and it does get unhinged if you pose the model too much and then the torso sinks down before I know it. So either I do have your problems but I didn’t notice them or I don’t ^^;. The only real problem mine have is the lack of any decent articulation by design.
I have face the same issues, the waist always comes off. The shoulder is a total joke. And the light beam at the back (when attached to the backpack), just plucked out like toothpick….now I got to find super glue. This is one of my worst kit….totally regret getting it.
Z, i have a few questions :
01 – Does it necessary to use Tamiya’s Thinner and mix with the paint before painting on plastic?
02 – Does the paint chip off easily when transformation to Destroy mode?
03 – I heard it’s washable with water, is it really washable?
Thanks, and i hope you answer my quetions as soon as possible.
I agree. RED should have been this guy’s staple color and not PINK. Red makes the destroy mode look more menacing, not to mention bloodier. For other things, Rrobbert184 from Youtube did mention that the joints don’t bend full 90 at the arms and legs, but I think you got around that. And separating the fingers was a nice move. So, overall, it’s good, I think. Thanks for reviewing. Please come up with a review for the OVA version of this guy! Thanks!
Hi Z,
Is that really a Tamiya Flat Blue on the backpacks & foot? If so how many coats? you never painted the weapons, correct? If no what color combo did you use? (sorry, I’m really bad at mixing combinations)
i went and bought a red gundam marker just to do that with the v-fin. never used those types of gundam markers before so i almost messed it up. but i seriously love the finished result. it just gives draws your attention right to the head.
whats the difference of this and the OVA Version?
i wanted to make my unicorn psycho frame transparent bright blue but i used it on the gundam the tamiya clear blue n it gave me a dark color can someone tell me how to turn it into a nice bright blue color
Hi Z,
It is said that paint over ABS plastic would damage the plastic, is it true? Based on your experience.
Did you thin the paint for painting its psycho frame?
What tamiya spray can colour did you paint ur beam magnum and bazooka with?
Hi Z, Happy Holidays, I hope your not too busy to answer, but I’d like to know what brand of paint you exactly used for the beam magnum lens, and the head camera. I cant find any clear green from tamiya, I do have clear red and clear blue, but no clear green, Thanks for the response.